Rhinestone Guy, Inc

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There is a considerable product offering in our catalog.  These notes will help to clarify differences and similarities in products, especially Rhinestones and their grades.

The most widely known rhinestone company is Swarovski. For the most part, when you see, "Austrian" rhinestones, they are usually of Swarovski crystal company origin.   Since this company has been pumping these critters out for a very long time, most costumers and jewelers know this product very well. Therefore, we will use Swarovski as the reference for comparisons of all other glass and crystal. (And most laymen have seen Swarovski crystal in gift and jewelry shops...little animals, flowers, crystals, etc.)

Many of our competitors have used our information, reworded it, and published on the Internet, often word for word. We have gained this knowledge through experience, not copying other's words. When we advise something, it is from experience, not copyright infringement. We have articles on "how to do..." under 'Useful Information." If I have written it, I have already done it and am giving you the benefit of what I have found. There is no point in naming these imitators, every dog has his day. But please don't blame me for what you have been misinformed about by someone else. IF you need information and this site doesn't have it written down, just call me. If I know something about what you are doing, I will tell you.  Thanks, Phil

Rhinestones:

• Swarovski / Austrian Rhinestones:   

Swarovski rhinestones are the stones that all other rhinestones are compared to. This company sets the standard for cut, clarity, brilliance, and consistency. A huge variety of colors is offered, with new colors coming out about every 6 months (new colors are usually offered in 20SS size only, with other sizes following in about 6 months). The colors are relatively consistent from batch to batch, sizing is very good. Lot variance is noted in effect colors more so than in regular colors. Almost all the transparent colors (emerald, jonquil, siam, etc.) are offered in a Color AB counterpart at additional expense. Swarovski has ceased production of Colors AB in sizes  34SS and larger (available in sizes 5ss thru 30ss), but most Effect colors are available in sizes 12SS through Size 34SS. Many effect colors are avialable in sizes 5SS, 7SS, and 9SS. These stones are offered in style 2012 (flat back) with 12 facets around the table (flat top) and flat back for gluing or heat setting. Newest production from Swarovski is the Style 2028, a 14 facet stone (7 larger, 7smaller facets around a smaller table).All transparent colors are offered in style 1012 (point back) or Style 2012/2028 (flat back),  as well as Crystal AB.  Colors AB are available in Point Back stones, but by special order and must be ordered by the full package, as we do not offer these stones as regular inventory. Please Note:  Fire Opal is available 12SS through 34SS in regular flat backs, 10SS Thru 34SS in Heat Fix. NO smaller versions of Fire Opal are, or will be, available due to nature of color mixing. When ordering, play it safe by using a Swarovski Color Chart for true representation of colors. At this writing, Swarovski offers 91 colors. We stock most colors, but be aware that new colors are usually produced in 20SS first, then in other sizes as time passes. Newest colors are slow to reach the market in rhinestones, usually produced in beads first. Swarovski comes out with 2 -4 new colors per year.

• Czech Machine Cut:    

     This is a very fine lead crystal rhinestone, has 8 facets with a relatively large table. At distances, these stones flash brighter than do Swarovski, and because of great presence and cost, are costumer's favorites. Granted, the Crystal is not quite as bright due to slightly lower lead content, I defy anyone to see the difference at distances greater than 5 feet! In fact, the Czech stone will often outshine its Swarovski counterpart at distance. If you want the greatest amount of light on stage, the greatest amount of flash, choose Czech Preciosa Machine Cut rhinestones. Personally, I mix the Swarovski with Czech when I do costuming to get the best of both worlds. The colors in Czech tend to be a little less intense than in Swarovski in some colors. Reds (Lt. Siam and Siam) are a shade darker than in Swarovski (I prefer the Czech Lt. Siam to Swarovski Lt. Siam, less "fake" looking). 

• Rhinestone Guy Flat Back Rhinestones:    Without a doubt, the brightest rhinestone we have seen to date. Cut with 12 facets and large table, this rhinestone is brighter than that of Swarovski and Czech at both close up AND distance! This is a dream come true for us, for we finally have what we consider the definitive flat back rhinestone. The lead content is higher than any other flat back on the market, and therefore, the refraction is higher. At this time, it is available only in Crystal, sizes 16SS and 20SS...look for us to expand this line as quickly as possible.

• Czech Extra Grade:

Made by Preciosa, this stone is double cut (top and bottom only) and facets are molded. The facets are not as sharp as the Machine cut, and we have seen considerable variance in quality of this stone. Some lots, especially  the crystal and crystal AB, come in ok, and others are not so good. This is NOT lead crystal, but is glass. Therefore, this stone does not have the brilliance that either Swarovski or Czech Machine cut exhibit. It is available in Crystal and transparent colors, as well as Crystal AB, but not in Colors AB or effect colors. We suggest this stone for children's clothing or for Tee Shirts. We do not recommend this stone for dance wear any longer.  We will continue to carry Crystal and Crystal AB in sizes 16SS, 20SS, 30SS, and 34SS in this quality, but colored stones are not being brought in for stock any longer. If you want colors in this stone quality, please inquire, subject to stock on hand.

• Acrylic Rhinestones:

Acrylic rhinestones have their place where decorations are added to inexpensive clothing. Make no mistake about it, these rhinestones do NOT sparkle like the real thing because acrylic does not transmit light as does glass or lead crystal. BUT, their cost is attractive for children's wear and single-use costumes. AND, not all acrylic rhinestones are created equally! We handle only premium acrylic. Acrylic rhinestones are made by molding. Ocassionally, mold tabs are present that have to be broken off the rhinestone before using...not many, but a few have these tabs.  We do like the acrylic jewels, not only for cost, but in many instances, we feel they look better than do the Czech fire-polished jewels which are more expensive. If you are gluing acrylic rhinestones to fabric or other items, do NOT use Super Glue or  similar glues. We stongly suggest using only GemTac for acrylic rhinestones.

There is one advantage of acrylics over crystal rhinestones...the mirror backing is an intregal part of the stone, whereas glass and crystal rhinestones have the mirror applied as a coating. The coating can peel from the glass. This is especially important when gluing larger stones, such as cabouchons, faceted jewels, etc. 

Acrylic Rhinestones certainly have their place...If you are stuck with a houseful of kids on a rainy day, give them acrylic rhinestones and a Bedazzler, get out a bunch of old Tee Shirts and let them go to town! This will entertain them for hours!

• Heat Fix, Iron-On, and Heat Set Rhinestones:

These rhinestones are the same as above, except each flat back rhinestone has a heat-melt glue on the back ready for gluing by heat.  We handle Heat Fix rhinestones that have a melt temperature between 305-310 degrees F....If this changes, we will let you know.

These stones can be set with an iron set at about wool, a heat press set to required temperature, or with a tool designed to mount stones one at a time.  

Regardless of what anyone tells you, the weakest link in the rhinestone system is its mirror backing (the coating on the back of a rhinestone is a mirror bonded to the glass...that is how it reflects light. This mirror does not have a very strong bond with the glass and can be broken free of the glass with abrasion.  That is why you see a nice silver, shiny spot where a rhinestone used to be...the glass has come loose from the backing.)  Therefore, I advise using smaller heat fix stones. SS20 is the largest I set if I need it to hold up over time. 

 Heat set stones are become very popular, applying one at a time with a Kandi Kane. And, you can make your own transfers (See "make your own transfers" under "useful information" here.)  We also have stencils to set Heat Fix rhinestones into with a Kandi Kane...perfect for the "design impared."

 Swarovski's new glue on the style 2028 is very good, can be dry cleaned, seems to hold up in washing machines (as long as you use smaller sizes and turn garment inside out). We prefer the glue on Swarovski to that of Czech, but both seem to work fine in smaller stones. The glue on our own brand of rhinestones is very good, but cannot be dry cleaned.

We offer Rhinestone Guy 2X rhinestones as a lower price alternative to both Czech and Swarovski. These stones are double cut with formed facets. The are basically lead-free, are geared to the lower end market where every penny counts. This is no slouch of a stone, for it compares very well for bling without the high cost of lead crystal. This is the quality of stone found at Target and K-Mart. IF you are producing Tees that sell for $25.00 or so, this is the stone for you! We sell this stone in premade custom transfers AND as loose stones. (See RG rhinestones under "Heat Set-Iron On rhinestones." )

Overall, I advise using a heat press when applying heat fix rhinestones in transfers. I have not found that household irons do the job very well. Often, a local Tee Shirt shop will apply your transfers for a small fee. Ask around. 

Colors of Rhinestones and Jewels:

• Crystal: diamond like, clear, no color,  the rhinestone most ofter seen
• Transparent Colors: Gem-like colors, often named after the gem they imitate, such as: Emerald (green), Peridot (lime green), Sapphire (royal blue), Amethyst (purple), etc. If the name has 'Light' before it, it is a paler version of the color.
• Colors AB:  these stones are produced by adding an Aurora Borealus coating to the stone. The coating will cause a prismatic effect in light refraction, casting all colors of the rainbow, with the base color showing through.  Crystal AB results when a 'Crystal' color has an AB coating applied. This stone will cast mild colors in all ranges, BUT Swarovski does it better! Swarovski AB coatings reflect in the red, blue, green, and gold areas, whereas Czech reflects more Gold/Yellow than do the Swarovski.
• Effect Colors:  Special colors produced by polarization of the glass, usually producing two or more different colors, depending upon how light is hitting the stone. Both Czech and Swarovski produce these stones, but again, Swarovski does it better and has a broader color spectrum of choice.

          Please order the color charts to see all of the above colors in action! Color charts are prduced in actual rhinestones, with rhinestones for each size mounted across the top of each card.

• Czech Jewels:  These stones are in a state of change, for the better. Right now, they are priced right, but the faceting is inferior to Austiran products. The same applies to the sew-ons(Exception..Czech Machine cut Pendants and Beads are very good...not Swarovski, but very good).  AND the price reflects the difference. These are 'Fire-Polished' stones, meaning they are cast and then finished by heat.  (They are NOT CUT).  Large stones are disappearing quickly...too difficult to make.
• Swarovski Drops (Pendants): Excellent cut, color, clarity, available in many sizes in crystal, crystal AB, transparent colors, and colors AB. (Industry Standard)
• Czech Drops  (Pendants) Excellent cut and clarity, available in crystal crystal AB, transparent colors, and colors AB. Are Machine cut and polished.
• Austrian Jewels: Excellent qualitity in color, clarity, and cut. More expensive than Czech, but worth it. These stones are fully cut or cast (depends upon the stone, but all are great), polished.
• Flat Back Rhinestones: Faceted Table and sides with very thin girdle, flat on the back, with mirror coating to help with light reflection. The standard stone for glue mounting.  Does not pucker fabric when mounted with rim or tiffany mount. True name is 'Chaton Rose'
• Pointed Back Rhinestone: As the name implies, has pointed back like a diamond. Not suitable for gluing, so use rim or Tiffany mounts instead. Can be set with a Rhinestone Punch, will somewhat pucker fabric when mounted. Usually has metalic coating on back for light refection. Better reflecting power than flat backs and break up reflected light better due to facets on back of stone (flat backs rely on mirror coating on back to reflect light, pointed backs do some of the reflecting themselves. Rarely used for gown ornimentation. Cubic Zirconium stones have NO coating on back, but have become too expensive to adorn garments.
• Jewels: These are simply large Rhinestones of various shapes, such as Emerald cut (rectangular), Square Cut, Oval Cut, Round Cut, Triangle Cut, Heart Shaped, Navette Shape (similar to 'Marquis Cut), Pear Shaped,  and may be of glue/mount style with no holes (IF Flat Back), or of sew-on type with holes bored in the edges for sewing onto fabric. Come in colors, crystal, and often Crystal AB.  Available as Flat Back, Pointed Back, Sew-on.  IF a 'jewel' is rose-cut, that means it has a flat table on top (not faceted over the top). Many of these jewels can be mounted with either tiffany mounts or rim sets. BUT, before ordering jewels to attach with mountings, refer to our 'Mountings' page to make sure a suitable mount is made for a specific size jewel.
• Lochrosens: These are Round Rhinestones, measured in Millimeters (MM) and have a hole bored through the center for thread attachment to fabric (usually a rochaille or seed bead is use in conjunction with the stone for attachment). Very pretty when used for accents or where affordable, quality rhinestones are to be sewn on.. Please note: Use only Japanese Quality Crystal/Silver lined seed beads to mount these with. (Chinese and Taiwan beads will discolor over time!)
• Coronas: Same as Lochrosens, except square shaped. Very Bright, well cut, polished. Have flat back. Swarovski.  See Lochrosen about mounting
• Margarites: Same as Lochrosens, except flower shaped edges. Very good cut, Swarovski, See Lochrosen about mounting. Use only Japanese quality seed beads.
• Cabouchons: Domes of polished glass, mirror coated flat back, very similar to star sapphire stones seen in jewelry. Very good for accent, available in round or oval, are unfaceted, and are offered in colors, clear, and AB.  Have flat back.  Some AB colors available. These can be mounted with rim sets relatively easily.
• Rauten Roses: Similar to Cabouchons, but are faceted. Available as rounds, Ovals, or Navettes (Marquis shaped). Have flat back. Do not have a flat 'table' on top of stone, as opposed to a 'large' rhinestone offered by Swarovski.  Rautens are fire polished, so do not expect the dazzling cut look of Swarovski.
• Chaton Roses or Chatonroses:  Another name for Flat Back Rhinestones.
• Chatons: Pointed Back Rhinestones
• Rose-Cut Jewels:  Have a flat table like a rhinestone, as opposed to a Rauten Rose which is faceted over the top. Very nice jewels!
• Mirrors: Thin mirrors cut into shapes of round, square, oval, triangle, rectangles. Measured in Millimeters (MM). Excellent for light reflection where sunlight or spotlights are used. Cast rays of light (Rhinestones glimmer). Use with Rim mounts to cover edges. These mirrors are also available in Prime Acrylic, are lightweight, and are very good, will not break (glass can break), but will scratch more easily, so care must be taken when cleaning them....use soft cloth, never paper.
• Mountings:  Basically two types, Tiffany and Rim
• Findings:  the metal stuff that stones and jewels are mounted in, such as earring posts, brooches, beading pins, clasps, jump rings, chain, etc.
• Rhinestone Chain:  Rhinestones (chatons) mounted in metal findings, linked together with flat metal links. (Usually sold by the inch in fabric stores), available in gold or silver settings, crystal or crystal AB stones of some size (measured in SS), and special order in colors. (Rhinestone Chain can be found under 'Banding' here.
• Rondelle:  ring or shape, usually round, with hole in center for stringing with beads.  Rhinestone Rhondelles are rings of rhinestones mounted in metal finding with hole in center, used as bead separator.  Sort of disc shaped.  Rhondelle beads are usually discs with a hole in center. If using rhinestone rondelles with round beads, choose the rondelle size to match the bead size. The beads 'snuggle' into the center of the rondelle.

                Tiffany Mounts: Prongs that come up through fabric and wrap around stone edges (like a ring's setting). They are very inexpensive, easy to use, BUT will snag everything in sight. We do not recommend their use on sweaters. Choose Tiffany mount of same SS or MM as jewel or stone for mounting.  Available for all sizes and shapes of stones.

                Rim Mounts: Surround edge of stone with solid ring (bezzel) with prongs going down into fabric, bending over on the reverse side of the fabric.  Will not snag surround fabrics, but your garment should be lined to protect you and your underclothes from the "tabs".  Available in all sizes and shapes, measured in SS (for mounting rhinestones 12 SS through 48SS) and in MM ( for mounting jewels and larger rhinestones, mirrors). If a stone measures 15MM, then mount with a 15MM rim.

Rhinestone Sizes:  No, the system does not particularly make sense to me either! But, it is enough to know that rhinestones, nail heads, and some jewels are sized by Jewelry Trade nomenclature. Since we cannot change it, we join the bandwagon and attempt to explain what the sizes mean. Please have a millimeter ruler on hand to figure all this out. (most rulers have an 'inch' side and a metric side (labled 'CM'...each CM (Centimeter) is 10 millimeters, and the little marks between each CM are millimeters.)

SS sizes:  SS stands for 'Stone Size,' an arbitrary jewelry sizing of stones, correlates to a millimeter diameter range, i.e.,      20SS is 4.5-4.8 mm diameter.  See Size Chart for sizes

PP Sizes: PP stands for 'Pearl Plate', a sizing device for pearls.  the larger the PP size, the larger the rhinestone. Small pointed back rhinestones are sized in PP, i.e., 3PP, etc.

Nail Head Sizing:  to complicate the issue, nail heads have their own set of numbers, and often, one number means something in a particular nail head and not another! If we size a nail head in SS, then it is sized as the rhinestones are. If we size it in a number, then it means all but nothing, except, somewhere, somehow, we can tell you the diameter in mm.

Glue  and Rhinestones:

It seems that everyone has an opinion about glue, what glue, when to glue, glue is better/sewing is better, and ..................  but since I am the one that is writing, my opinion counts more!!  Whether to glue or sew/use mounts is more a question of future use than what is better or easier.  So:  IF your garment/item must be dry-cleaned somewhere/sometime, DO Not use glue.  All glues currently in use are sensitive to the cleaning fluids used ( including  iron-on types ).  The fluid deteriorates the glue, and discolors it. Therefore, if you are stoning velvet, AND you plan to use it to the point that it must be cleaned, then either mount or sew on the stones.  If you plan to use pointed back stones, they will have to be mounted. Otherwise, glue is the choice.  It is fast, easy, and 'do-able' where thousands of stones are to be used.  

Choice of glue:  There's a lot of choices here, we prefer 'GemTac' for strength and consistency, - dries clear, doesn't glop out of dispenser, and if used correctly, hangs on to the stones very well.  Most stone loss after gluing is the result of technique rather than glue failure.  Always press stone into glue, put down just enough glue to come out around stone when pressed into glue (just barely).  When gluing larger Jewels, it is VERY important to capture the edges with glue. No silvered backing can support the weight of the stone. The stone will break loose from the silver backing, fall off, and leave a very shiny silver shape stuck to the garment.  And do not lay down so much glue that the surface will skim-dry before the stone is set into it.  We strongly suggest using 'Applicator sticks' when stoning...much faster, much easier, and you don't need tweezers.  These glues (Gem-Tac, etc.) are usually white in the bottle, but dry clear, are water soluble before drying, and withstand washing very well. Gem Tac dries clear and has elasticity. It sticks to everything I have used it on, and especially glass (where I got sloppy and forgot to clean it off....razor blades had to be used to scrape it off.) I have glued 150,000 rhinestones to a motorcycle and have not lost one stone, even with serious washing and cleaning! (Yes, we sell GemTac glue and Applicator sticks.)

Other glues in use include E6000...good, strong, fast drying, but leaves strings of glue when you pull back.  don't even think about hot glue guns...failure is very high.  Super Glue is great for the fast fix, but not in the long run...too thin, runs out into fabric.  Epoxy glues are strong, but highly allergenic (do not get this stuff on your skin, do not inhale fumes...it is only a matter of time before you will develop an allergy to it, and when you do, the body's reactions can be very strong, as in open sores, swelling, oozing, need I say more? AND, you can develop an allergy to it overnight...Surprise, Surprise!)...good for jewelry, but not garments. Epoxies usually do not have elasticity.  OK for Belt Buckles, but rough sand the metal before setting with Epoxy. These glues are available in most hardware stores as a two part dispenser that must be mixed before using.  Do not mix very much at one time, as it begins to set within seconds, and is very temperature sensitive. DO NOT allow water to mix into glue, as you will have a gummy mess. Do NOT get this stuff on your skin!  It is not water/soap soluble. Use Acetone only if you must, Acetone goes into the skin and can affect kidneys!

DO NOT USE 'Super Glue' with acrylic stones...damages surfaces.  Do not dry clean garments with acrylic rhinestones...they will be dulled.

Terms: SS: "Stone Size", used for flat back and larger pointed back stones. 8SS = 2.3 mm,  10 SS = 2.8 mm, 12 SS = 3.1 mm, 16 SS = 3.9 mm, 20 SS = 4.7 mm, 30 SS = 6.4 mm, 34 SS = 7.1 mm, 40 SS = 8.9 mm, 42 SS = 9.1 mm, 49 SS = 11.1 mm

            pp:   "Pearl Plate", used for pointed back stones up to about pp35.   Roughly, 1/2 pp = SS, but not exactly. (this name comes from pearl sizing techniques where a plate has holes of a certain size drilled in it so pearls of that size or smaller will fall through)

            AB: " Aurora Borealis" Coating on rhinestone to produce rainbow of color reflection. Very effective on Crystal rhinestones, used on colored stones to enhance reflection.  AB coating make stones "shine" more under spotlights. (our opinion).  AB coatings in Acrylic rhinestones are  not a surface effect, but AB coating is on mirror behind the acrylic material. Therefore, 'AB' is offered only in light acrylic colors (wouldn't be seen in darker stones).  DO NOT EXPECT acrylic AB stones to look like their Crystal Glass counterparts!

            Tin Cut:   High precision cutting of beads and drops, vastly superior to "fire polished", the difference between Cut Glass and Molded glass.

            Fire Polished:  Translation:  molded glass, facet edges not as sharp as cut facets (machine cut)

            Seed Bead: tiny, usually round beads of some color, with a tiny hole for stringing or sewing. Use with BEADING NEEDLES, as normal needle is too big to go through hole.  Used for decoration, sewing sequines to fabric (bead in center), attaching Lockrosens, etc.   Use size 13/0 or 11/0 seed beads to mount Lochrosens, Margaritas, or Corona rhinestones. Use Japanese quality only, as these beads do not discolor with time as does the Chinese or Taiwan versions. (Silver lining will tarnish in Chinese and Taiwan beads with time).

            Bugel Bead:   graded by size from 1 to 5, then in mm.  The longer the bead, the more easily it is broken. Expect broken beads in your order!  Look like little tubes with very small hole running length of bead. Available in colors, AB, silver lined, etc.   Use Beading Needle to sew or string.  Note:  If you are making a costume, etc. that you expect to use for years, USE Japanese quality beads, more expensive, but silvers and reds will not discolor over time as with Chinese/Taiwan beads.

           Rocaille Bead: very similar to a seed bead.

            Cut Beads or Tin Cut Beads:  This is the critter used for necklaces, braclets, etc. Highly cut and polished jewelry grade beads sized in mm (from 3mm to about 18 mm) available in most colors and AB coatings. Have regained popularity BIG TIME to the point where supply cannot keep up with demand.  Expect these guys to rise in price sharply!   Produced by Swarovski and Czech, beautiful to look at, very durable. Use for fabric decorations, strings, bracelets, necklaces, etc.

              BiCone   (Bi-Cone) Bead:  Same as Diamond Cut Bead, very popular when used by themselves or mixed with round and or cube beads.

            Fire Polished Bead:  faceted beads, similar to Cut beads, but do not have the sharp facets that cut beads exhibit.  MUCH less expensive than Cut Beads.   Available in huge color range, AB, and effect colors.  Used in inexpensive (K-Mart) strands.

           NAIL HEAD SIZING: sized either by SS sizes or Nail Head sizing...small nail heads are measured in SS, larger ones are Nail Head sizes...very confusing, even to us!

We hope the above is helpful. If you have questions, please Email or call. If we don't have the answer, we will get it for you.

Phil Brandt, Rhinestone Guy

rhinestoneguy@yahoo.com

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